Most Valuable Nickels
1879 Shield nickel Shield nickels weren’t produced in 1877 or 1878, and production was limited in 1879. Although the 1880 Shield nickel is slightly more rare, this coin is highly collectible, and a number of high-quality graded examples have been identified. Even “Poor” and “About Good” examples of this coin can be worth nearly $500, with Mint State coins fetching $5,000 or more.
1880 Shield nickel Fewer Shield coins were minted for circulation in 1880 than any other year. However, a higher number of Proof coins were made—coins that are produced specifically for collectors, and which have a higher shine and more definition than regular coins. Proof coins are not quite as valuable as circulation strikes, or coins that were intended to go into circulation, so collectors should be mindful not to purchase a Proof that’s been mistakenly identified as a circulation strike. A circulation-strike 1880 Shield nickel graded MS66 sold for nearly $200,000 in 2023.
1913 Liberty Head V nickel In 1913, the Liberty Head nickel was replaced with the Buffalo Head nickel. But 5 Liberty Head nickels were secretly produced that year, although no one is really sure when or why. These coins were never circulated, and while 2 of the 5 are currently on display in museums, the other 3 are owned by private collectors. One of these coins sold for over $3 million at auction! Because only 5 of these coins are known to exist and their ownership is well-documented, it’s unlikely that anyone will ever find one of these coins in their pocket—but it’s still an amazing piece of history!
1913-D 3-Legged Buffalo nickel A minting error in the first year of the Buffalo nickel led to some coins that featured a 3-legged bison (mistakenly called a buffalo) on the reverse side. There’s also a version where the bison has 3-1/2 legs—both coins are highly collectible. A 3-1/2 leg buffalo nickel graded MS65 sold for over $47,000 at an auction in 2004. But even lower grades can be worth hundreds of dollars.
1916 Double Die Buffalo nickel A striking error on this coin created a doubling effect on the front, or obverse, side. It can be seen without the help of a magnifying glass—the outline in the Native American’s chin, throat, lips, and headdress features two lines, and the numbers in 1916 are double-stamped, one over the other. The value of this coin varies depending on the quality, but a coin graded in “Good” condition could be worth $5,000 or more.
1918/7 D Buffalo nickel This Buffalo nickel was produced in 1918, but the year was stamped over the previous year (1917)—a striking error known as an overdate. It’s considered the rarest Buffalo nickel. Genuine versions of this nickel feature a mintmark that’s slightly tilted to the left. A circulated 1918/7 D Buffalo nickel can be worth $600 or more. In pristine condition, it could be worth up to $400,000.
1926-S Buffalo nickel This coin had relatively low minting numbers, and most of the nickels went into circulation. That can make it hard to find one in mint condition—so its rarity makes it fairly valuable to collectors. Circulated 1926 Buffalo nickels can be worth anywhere from $15 to $4,400. But in 2008, a 1926-S Buffalo nickel graded MS66 sold for $322,000.
1939 Doubled Monticello Jefferson Nickel A doubled-die striking error causes the words “FIVE CENTS” and “MONTICELLO” to appear doubled on this coin. This coin was widely circulated, and as many as 1,500 examples exist today. In mint condition, this coin is valued from around $400 to over $11,000.
1942 Jefferson nickel To help preserve copper and nickel for the war efforts, in 1942 the mint started using silver to make Jefferson nickels. In Gem condition, these nickels have a shiny luster, although in circulated condition they tend to turn greenish as the silver oxidizes. They also feature a notably large mint mark on the back (either P, D, or S). Although these coins aren’t particularly rare, they are prized by collectors. For coins graded Good or higher, they’re typically worth between $2 and $25. Proofs can be worth $130 and higher.
1943/2 P Jefferson nickel Thanks to an overdate error on this coin the year 1943 is stamped over the year 1942. Over 1,000 authenticated examples of this coin have been found, and it’s considered highly desirable by collectors. In Good (G4, G6) condition, this coin is worth around $25–$30. One example graded MS67FS—Mint Condition 67 with Full Steps (all 6 steps visible on Monticello)—sold for over $16,000 in 2008.
1950-D Jefferson nickel Only 2,630,000 1950-D Jefferson nickels were minted, which is relatively low compared to other issues. It’s highly collectible because of its rarity, but because many examples of this coin have survived, it’s fairly easy to find and somewhat inexpensive. “Good” coins are valued at around $5.50, with Mint examples ranging from $100 to nearly $200.
1945-P Double Die Reverse Similar to the 1935 Double Die Reverse, this coin features doubling on the words “FIVE CENTS” and “MONTICELLO.” The effect is a little less noticeable in this year, but you can usually spot it without the help of a magnifying glass. In “Fine” (F12) condition, this coin is valued at around $20, while the highest Mint grades have sold for $1,500 or more.
Errors to Look For on Nickels
Planchet errors The planchet is the blank piece of metal that the coin is stamped on. If the planchet is damaged or it’s too large or too small, it creates an error in the finished coin that can make it more collectible. Sometimes coins are stamped onto the wrong planchet—if you find a coin that looks like a penny but it’s stamped with a nickel design, that’s a planchet error. If the metals in the planchet aren’t mixed correctly, it can cause the surface of the coin to peel away or look like wood grian.
Die errors The die is the stamp that’s used to impress the coin’s design into the planchet. There can be a number of issues with the die that lead to deformations on the coin, including: A cracked die can create a lightning-bolt shape on the coin A chip or break in the outer edge of the die can lead to a blob on the coin known as a “cud” Dirt or oils in the die can prevent the image from being fully stamped, leaving a blank look on the coin.
Strike errors If the planchet isn’t centered correctly, if it gets stuck and is hit by the die more than once, or if something gets between the planchet and the die, these are known as striking errors. Because overdates aren’t a planchet error or die error, they’re usually considered strike errors.
U.S. Nickel Series
Shield nickels (1866–1833) Shield nickels were 5-cent pieces that were produced starting in 1866. They were made of 25% nickel and 75% copper, and nearly 15 million of these coins were made in the first year. They feature a large shield on the obverse of the coin and a 5 surrounded by stars on the reverse. In 1866 and 1867, shield nickels features rays around the 5 on the reverse of the coin, but these were removed for later years because it was difficult to imprint the rays correctly.
Liberty (V) nickels (1833–1913) Liberty nickels were produced beginning in 1883. These coins featured the head of Lady Liberty on the front and the Roman numeral V on the back, surrounded by a wreath and the words “United States of America” and “E Pluribus Unum.” The first run didn’t include the denomination, but after some people altered the coins to pass them off as $5 Half Eagles, the Mint added “FIVE CENTS” to the reverse of the coin by the end of 1883.
Buffalo (Indian Head) nickels (1913–1938) Buffalo nickels were produced starting in 1913, and they feature a fictional Native American chief on the obverse and a bison (commonly called a buffalo) on the reverse. On Type-I coins, the bison stands on a mound. Type-II refers to coins produced after the mound was removed in a redesign. It can be difficult to distinguish between circulation strikes and Matte Proofs in this series.
Jefferson nickels (1938–Present) Jefferson nickels have been circulated since 1938 and are still in use today. They feature the image of Thomas Jefferson on the obverse, and most years in the series feature Jefferson’s Virginia home Monticello on the rear. In 2004 and 2005, “Westward Journey” coins were printed, with a design that paid homage to Lewis and Clark’s purchase of the Louisiana Territory.
How are nickels graded?
Most coins are graded using the Sheldon Grading Scale. This scale gives coin graders guidelines to help ensure consistent grading. Wear and tear, dulling, scratches, and dings can all impact the grade. The higher the grade, the more valuable a coin will be—although the coin’s rarity also plays a large part in its final value. The grades are: Poor-1 (P1) Fair-2 (F2) About Good-3 (AG3) Good-4; Good-6 (G4; G6) Very Good-8; Very Good 10 (V8; V10) Fine-12; Fine 15 (F12; F15) Very Fine-20; Very Fine-25; Very Fine-30; Very Fine-35 (VF20; VF25; VF30; VF35) Extremely Fine-40; Extremely Fine-45 (EF40; EF45) Almost Uncirculated-50; Almost Uncirculated-53; Almost Uncirculated-55; Almost Uncirculated-58 (AU50; AU53; AU55; AU58) Mint State 60–70 (MS60–70)
How to Examine Rare Coins
Hold it by the edges if it’s not in a holder. The oils from your fingers can damage a coin, so to protect it, hold it carefully just around the rim. If you’re handling really rare coins, you might even wear soft white gloves or hold the coin with tweezers.
Examine the coins under good lighting. Most collectors find that incandescent light (around 70 watts) is the best for carefully inspecting coins. As you look at the coin, check for tiny parallel scratches called hairlines that can affect the value of the coin. Also, look at how shiny the coin is (called its luster). If someone has used a harsh chemical to clean a coin, it will have a dull luster, impacting its value.
Use a loupe or magnifying glass to see the details. A loupe is a special magnifying glass that you can use to see fine details on the surface of a coin. You can hold the loupe to your eye, but if you plan to do a lot of coin work, it might be worth investing in a head-mounted loupe to free up your hands. Many coin collectors—or numismatists—use a loupe between 7x and 14x magnification.
Use a grading book to get an idea of value and condition. To learn more about the coins you’re collecting, purchase a grading standards book that describes exactly what to look for in an individual coin. That way, you’ll know whether a coin is worth buying, what your coin is worth if you already have one, and whether it’s worth sending a special coin off to be professionally graded.
Store it in a holder where it doesn’t touch other coins. When coins scrape across each other, it leaves tiny scratches on the surface. If you have a rare coin, tossing it into a container with the rest of your change could bring down the value, so it’s worth putting it in a coin book or a sleeve if you think you’ve found something valuable.
FAQs
What is the rarest nickel worth? The rarest nickel is a 1913 Liberty V nickel. Only 5 were ever produced, and only 3 remain in private collections. One of these coins recently sold for over $3 million at auction.
How can you tell if a nickel is rare? The best way to learn about rare nickels is to buy a coin grading book. Also, join coin collecting groups in your community or online.
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