Finding Your Part
Shower and lightly towel-dry your hair. It will be easier to find your hair’s natural parting line when it’s damp, but not soaking wet. After using the towel to remove excess moisture, lightly comb or brush the hair on top of your head forward. Most people have a single, natural “part” (or parting line) that runs from back to front on top of their head, usually to the right or left of center. Your hair naturally wants to fall away from the parting line on both sides. Some people have two parts, on both the left and right sides. Typically, though, one is more pronounced than the other and will be easier to locate and work with.
Place your fingers on the swirl (or cowlick) near the crown of your head. To the left or right side of the upper back of your head, you should find your hair patterned in a swirled shape. This is the starting point of your part in the back. Use two mirrors if you need help finding it, then touch the fingertips of one hand to it. If your hair tends to stick up in this spot in the back, you probably know it as a cowlick. If your hair has two parting lines, you’ll have two cowlicks in the back as well. Choose the more pronounced one.
Run your fingers slowly forward from the swirl. As you drag your fingers through your hair from back to front along the parting line, the hairs will naturally fall to one side or the other of the part. By the time you reach your forehead, you should have a pretty clear idea of where your parting line runs. Your part will still look a bit jagged at this point. If you’re going for a loose comb over, you’ll want it to keep this less-defined appearance. For a neat comb over, you’ll need to use a comb (after you apply a pomade) to better define the part.
Doing a Neat Comb Over
Massage your preferred pomade through your damp hair. With your hair still damp after a shower and towel-dry, work a dime- to quarter-sized amount of pomade into your hands. Massage it evenly through your hair, then use your fingers to comb your hair forward and—if necessary—find your parting line again. Oil-based pomades usually provide a stronger and longer hold, but water-based pomades are gentler on your hair and much easier to wash out. Pomades of both types also come in a range of holding strengths and sheens (that is, how shiny they’ll make your hair look). For a neat comb over, you’ll typically want to use a pomade with a strong, lasting hold and a glossy sheen that gives your hair a wet look.
Create a well-defined part with a comb. Hold the comb so that the teeth are parallel to and right above the ill-defined part line you’ve created with your fingers. Starting at the swirl in the back, drag the comb forward through your hair. This will create a straight, clearly-defined part line. If your part still isn’t as sharp and well-defined as you’d like, talk to your barber about styling options. Some people choose to use clippers to cut a wider, sharper parting line into their hair.
Style your hair with a comb for a sleeker look. On the short side of your part (that is, the side that doesn’t cross over the top of your head), comb the hair primarily straight down and away from the parting line. On the long side, comb the hair at a 30-45 degree angle towards the back. Using a comb instead of a brush will reduce the volume of your hair on top and enable the pomade to maintain a firmer hold. This sleeker style tends to look better if you have an oval or square face shape. Consult with your barber or stylist for advice on the best comb over style for you. You can use the clipper over comb technique. Lift the hair to 90 degrees with a flat top comb. Use a clipper with a half guard to cut across the top of the comb.
Use a brush to give your neat comb over more volume. Work with a comb or brush to guide the hair mainly downward on the short side. On the long side, use a brush to sweep the hair to the side and back. You can play with the backward angle you want to use—30, 45, even 60 or 75 degrees—or lift and sweep the hair back just at the front to add some extra volume at your forehead. Adding volume to your neat comb over can be a good choice if you have a diamond shaped face, since it can help balance out your facial features. It’s always a good idea to consult with your barber or stylist, though!
Styling a Loose Comb Over
Blow-dry your hair lightly to give it some extra volume. After your shower and towel-dry, use a blow dryer on a low setting to provide a bit more lift and body to your hair. Don’t dry it completely, though—you want it to still be a little damp all around. Angle the blow dryer upward towards your hair and work it from front to back through your hair to add volume. You can lift your hair up with a brush or your free hand as you dry it as well. Even though it takes at least as much effort to achieve, you want a loose comb over to look a bit less styled and managed than a neat comb over. Adding some volume with the blow dryer helps to achieve this.
Work a pea- to dime-sized amount of hair wax into your hair. Unlike pomades, which provide a tighter hold and more sheen, hair waxes offer a more subtle hold and a more natural look. Like pomades, though, a little bit of hair wax goes a long way, so start with a very small amount and add more only as needed. Work the wax into your hands, then massage it through your hair with your fingertips. Use trial-and-error to figure out the ideal amount of hair wax for you. If it doesn’t hold the way you’d like or as long as you want, use a bit more. If it creates too much sheen or hold, use a little less next time.
Define your part again, then brush your hair to either side of it. After blow-drying and applying wax to your hair, you may need to use your fingers to create a loosely-defined parting line again. As before, drag them from your cowlick to your forehead to direct your hair to either side of the part. After that, use a brush to add volume and definition to your loose comb over. On the long side of your part—the side that crosses over the top of your head—sweep the hair back at an angle to provide some extra lift. On the short side, brush it downward with only a slight back angle. Skip the brush and use only your fingers if you want a very loose comb over!
Trying a Bald Comb Over
Consider other bald hairstyle options first. Though it had a bit of a heyday in the 1970s, the classic bald comb over—that is, growing long strands of hair on top in a futile attempt to hide a bald spot—is strongly discouraged by most styling experts. In most cases, your attempt to hide your bald spot this way will only draw more attention to it. Other options include: A “modern” comb over, which more subtly guides slightly-longer hair on top over spots where your hair is thinning. This works best if your hairline is receding at the temples but you still have good coverage on top. Shaving your head completely. Trimming your hair very short all around. Growing facial hair that draws attention—this often pairs well with a shaved head or very short haircut. Trying the “Ceasar” look—growing your hair a little longer on top and loosely combing it forward. Having your barber cut your remaining hair on top in layers of varying lengths, then tousling them loosely—like the Ceasar, this works best if your hair is thinning but you aren’t fully bald on top. Embracing the “power donut”—basically, keeping your typical hairstyle on the sides and back while letting your bald spot shine.
Grow your hair long to the inside of your part. If you’ve decided that the bald comb over is the look for you, go for it! First, you’ll need to grow the hair to the inside of your part until it's long enough to span your bald spot. This often means the hair will need to be at least 3–4 in (7.6–10.2 cm) in length, and sometimes 6 in (15 cm) or more. If you have a large bald spot on top that reaches to your natural part, you may need to force the part further down the side of your head. That way, you can grow out hair to the side of your bald spot and use it for the comb over. Work closely with a barber who has experience with bald comb overs—look for someone who deals with a clientele of middle-aged and older men, for instance. They can help create a lower part and trim your hair properly as your comb over grows in.
Sweep the long hairs straight over your bald spot. After showering and defining your part, take a fine-toothed comb to the long hair to the inside of your part. Comb it straight over the top of your head so that the tips overlap the hair on the other side of your bald spot. Unlike other comb overs, where you can sweep the hair both across and slightly back, you pretty much have to go straight across with a bald comb over. Otherwise, you’ll simply be exposing the front of the bald spot that you’re trying to hide!
Use hairspray to secure the long strands of hair in place. While you can try gels, pomades, or other hair products, hairspray is the traditional hair product of choice for the bald comb over. Spray the tips of the combed-over long hairs aggressively, and use your fingers to help “glue” them in place over the shorter hairs beneath them. Even with a super-hold hairspray, wind is the enemy of a bald comb over. You may want to invest in a stylish hat for windy days!
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