How to Plant Tritoma

Selecting the Space and Seeds

Choose a sunny environment. Whether you plant in a container or a garden, make sure that your tritoma have access to full sunlight for at least eight hours every day once they’ve sprouted. Before that period it is best if you give the early seedlings a bit of shade, so that they don’t burn off.

Check for good drainage. Tritoma is native to an area with rocky and rough soil and it still retains some of those characteristics. Water your plants regularly, but make sure that the extra moisture drains away and doesn’t just sit on the surface. If the roots are continually saturated then they may rot off at the base.

Test the soil pH. Purchase a simple dip test at your local gardening center. After you see the results you will know if you need to make any modifications to the quality of the soil. Tritoma does best in a soil pH that falls between 6.0-7.0.

Chill the seeds, if not already done. If you’ve purchased seeds from a local garden store or online dealer, then they will likely require a bit of extra care before planting. Place the seeds in an airtight container within the refrigerator for six weeks before planting. When you are ready to plant, take the seeds out of the refrigerator and place them directly in the ground.

Planting the Tritoma

Plant in the early summer. Being a plant native to South Africa, tritoma does the best in hot environments. Planting the seeds in May or June allows them just enough time to develop before the temperatures elevate. Then, they will begin to bloom in the hottest months of the summer.

Start with indoor pots. If you choose to grow your tritoma inside, then make sure to keep the temperature set in the 70-75 degree Fahrenheit range. Peat pots are a particularly good planting container as they will provide both structure and nutrients. If you don’t have a peat pot available, almost any container will do. It just needs to be clean and have a depth of at least 3 inches to give plenty of room for root growth.

Transplant the seedlings at 2 inches. If you decide to grow indoors and then transplant outside, it will take about 7-8 weeks before the plants are ready to move. Make sure to transplant only after the final frost of the season to give the seedlings some time to get established. By this time your seedlings will stand around 2 inches tall. You can also tell that the seedlings are ready to move by looking at their leaves. They should have at least four full leaves. To transplant, grasp the seedling by the leaves, as the stem is too fragile. Use a spoon to loosen up the soil around the base. Apply a bit of pressure and lift the seedling and its roots out of the soil.

Put the seeds at least 6mm deep. This depth will provide protection from the elements, but it is also just deep enough for the seeds to still make it to the surface. Rhizomes, sprouts, or divided bulbs can be placed just slightly deeper at 7 cm because they are a bit hardier.

Leave at least 20 inches between plants. Since tritoma can grow to be rather tall, it will need plenty of air circulation around it without being overshadowed by other plants. Ideally, try to plant each tritoma at least 20 inches apart. If the plants seem to grow closer together you can always thin them out later, too. Providing plenty of room for air circulation will lessen the possibility of your tritoma getting “damping off,” a fungus that breaks down the plant at the soil line.

Pair them with other late-summer foliage. To keep your planting areas looking alive and active, place your tritomas alongside other plants that flower in the late summer months. Marigolds, in particular, work well with tritomas as they are low to the ground and easy to care for. The colors are also complementary with the red of the tritomas playing off of the orange and yellows in the marigolds.

Performing Seasonal Maintenance

Watch for any pests. Tritoma are generally very resistant to pests and insects in general. However, it is possible that spider mites or aphids may be attracted to them. Get rid of these insects by spraying your tritoma with a light coating of insecticidal soap. Some larger aphids you can also pick off by hand.

Protect in winter with a layer of mulch. In many cases the foliage of tritoma will provide sufficient warmth for the plant in the winter. But, it is good idea to add an extra layer of protection by layering straw mulch over the planting area. The mulch will limit the damage from frostbite while improving drainage, too.

Remove any old flower spikes. In the early spring, use garden shears to snip off any dead flower spikes. This practice, called “deadheading,” will allow your tritoma to spend its energy on new blooms, which will continue to appear well into the fall. For the foliage, remove any dead leaves that you see, but do so sparingly in the winter as this foliage provides extra warmth for the plant.

Tie down your plants over winter, then cut them back. You will likely notice wilting in the fall, which is when you should prepare the plants for winter. It is best to allow your plants to winter by tying their foliage over the center of the plant, protecting the flumes. Once the last frost of spring has passed, you should untie the plants and trim off all of the dead foliage.

Divide the bulbs in the spring. Before the summer flowering begins, dig up the bulbs, break them apart, and replant them in new areas. Give these divided plants some extra water until they appear established, as evidenced by sprouts coming up. Although this is a good remedy for overcrowding, make sure to not divide the same bulbs up more than once per five year or you’ll compromise their health.

Apply fertilizer in the spring. To give your tritoma an extra boost of energy and nutrients, mix some general purpose fertilizer into the soil in the spring. You can do this with both established and new plants. To protect the seedlings, always wait until they are fully established above the soil before using any fertilizer. To maintain the quality of the soil you can add a bit of fertilizer to the area of planting once every month thereafter.